Say hello to Paprika Patterns' newest release, the Onyx Shirt. In a closet currently full of peplums and curved high-low hemlines, the Onyx is stylistically a non-fussy breath of fresh air. It is perfect for light summery wovens (though I cooked one up in a knit french terry as well!) The intro on the pattern mentions its "minimalist and clean lines," and what can I say except that that is a great way to describe it! It definitely has more of an architectural feel than a curve-hugging romantic feel. I am dreaming of versions in some solid linens and chambrays....but, before I drift off into my ever-active sewing daydream consciousness, let me introduce you to the Onyx!
Options: View B neckline, View A length & sleeves
Fabric: Linen from Joann's; Tab is a bottom weight from Joann's; Mother of Pearl buttons
Mods: added about 1" to the length
Level of difficulty: Intermediate
About the pattern:
- PDF Pattern: First off, I genuinely appreciate how clean and clear Lisa formatted this pdf pattern. Visually, everything is straightforward, not confusing at all, and the pieces went together very simply. Additionally, there isn't any over-the-top "extra information" like I have seen in many pdf patterns lately. I opened a pdf pattern from another company this morning and discovered that it was 315 pages long. 315 PAGES. No thank you! I couldn't even collect my thoughts long enough to wade through it all I was so overwhelmed. That experience just increased my love for the format of the Onyx, it's conciseness and simplicity. Two thumbs up on that front!
- Options: Two different neck lines (I used the lower one); Cropped with darts or Shirt length without darts; Sleeves with cuffs/tabs or sleeveless.
- Sizing: I went by my bust measurement and sewed up the size 3, adding about an inch in length after looking at the final measurements and making a muslin. I sewed up my muslin in a french terry knit, so didn't notice that it was a little snug around my hips. Either I need to monitor my cheese intake or grade out about a 1/2" at the hip. Decisions, decisions...
- Bias Tape Neckline: I got to practice a new skill on this one! Since I work with knits more often than not, I had never done a bias binding, nor made bias tape. Luckily, this tutorial came out the morning I was about to embark on that bias tape-making journey! Even though it's the second step in the instructions I put it off for the very end. Can you say "procrastinator"? I was so proud when I finished it successfully on my first attempt, just as the sun had set on my birthday - so a very happy birthday it was indeed :)
- Seam Allowances: The Onyx has 5/8" seam allowances (unless otherwise noted) so you can finish the guts as you please. I chose to stitch the 5/8" and then serge the interior. I know that isn't the most professional way to do it but I have not yet tried French Seams...they are on my list of Things to Build Up Courage For though.
- Cuffs: I attempted to add a cuff as directed on my knit muslin version but for some reason was still seeing the unfinished seam. I have a sneaking suspicion this was because I was using a knit instead of a woven and it didn't press well at all, which didn't allow for top notch precision. I ended up taking it back off and just folding the cuffs in half, serging them on wrong-sides-together so that when I flipped it up the serged seam would be hidden. I applied them the same way in my linen version. I'm not sure what I was doing wrong initially, but since I decided to serge instead and didn't have any loose ends that way I didn't dig further into it. There is a note on the pattern that mentions "unusual cuff construction" - I might have to try to tackle that bad boy one more time so I can victoriously add another mental badge of accomplishment to my sewing repertoire.
This black and white gingham print french terry knit is from Nature's Fabrics. I didn't add length to this version because I wanted to see how the normal pattern measurements would hit. It was a titch short for my personal preference (which is why I added about 1" to my linen version). I ended up not hemming it and just added two rows of black lingerie elastic to the bottom instead, which equaled out to about an extra 1" total in length. I love the visual interest the elastic adds! For the neckline, I just serged and top stitched it down.
**The Onyx Shirt is 15% off right now, on sale for it's debut! Lisa also wrote a series of blog posts that cover bias necklines and the cuff construction as well. I think she is probably a mind reader because I had already written this post before I saw any of hers! So if you want any additional information on those things, make sure to check out the Paprika Patterns blog.**
I hope this review is helpful to anyone looking into the Onyx pattern! It really is relatively simple and a great way to add some basic pieces or snazzy prints to your summer wardrobe. Props to Lisa for a great pattern!
Thanks for stopping by!
*Disclaimer: I was sent this pattern in exchange for an honest review. All thoughts and opinions are 100% my own.